M302 P1 ;disable cold extrusion checking
m302 s0 ;always allow extrusion
m302 S33 ;only allow extrusion above 33

This will allow extruding. select the tool also.   

Remove the tip

change the config file to 100 for extruder steps

go to https://www.th3dstudio.com/estep-calculator/  and put in results from retracting 100mm

change config file

This is what your looking for:   

The Ethernet port of RE220 can easily turn your wired Internet connection into a wireless access point.

I purchased a TP-Link 220 used on amazon for 20 bucks. Note this is definitely a CHINA SPY device, the terms of use grants the CCP access to what your putting through the device so you have been warned, If the China Masters want to see what I am 3d printing thats ok for now, I will replace the device with a more secure one, this was just to make sure it would work.

Modify:
Remote trailer with 6 duet wifi controlled printers, trailer closes up with no wifi penetration  

   drilled a hole and ran a cat wire from the primary router to the 220 wifi device. 

First thing you have to change the mode of the device from range extender to access point. plug in the network and power.   

look at available network connections and select the tplink device network then run their address to connect , the ip is  http://tplinkrepeater.net or  http://192.168.0.254  once you connect it pretty easy sailing. when you restart the device it will show your new wifi network, name it something different so you can find it. I named mine 3dprint,this made it easier to config the duet wifi boards cause you have to tell them the ssid name so don't get to crazy. 

Once your setup you can log into the device from your regular internet setup, it will be like 192.168.1.12 when logged it the device will show who is on the 3dprint network, listing the ip addresses of the connected 3d printers. Just put their ip addresses into you current browser and the printer control panel of each machine will open.

If your wondering why I have this setup it's because I am sitting at my desktop terminal in my shop and am able to manage printers in another location

Now I am back and setting up hopefully 6 machines that are going to be lk1 base but with upgrades. 

1   duet wifi control
2   duel z axis
3  auto bed level of some type
4   quick change head assembly ( hotend and extruder as assembly with magnet mounts)
5  all enclosures with exhaust
6  better material management
7 video feeds
8   to be determined

Now to bring things to an update.  I had a complete setup with duet, duel z, paneldue, and bl touch working great. 
then I had to get it all wire tight and installed in a vent box and I shorted the board, This is the second time with the exact short.   

This then is the process of adding a new duet2 wifi from china with the 1.02 firmware    Below are some instruction links I followed   the process I will document  here

This is a difficult update and gets confusing. Especially  from 3.0 to 3.3.  There are 2 files you have to locate.  

DuetWiFiServer.bin

Duet2CombinedIAP.bin

When you are up and running the internet interface and try M997 S0 for firmware update you get these file missing errors   

Firstly understand you will have to connect the duet wifi with a USB data cable to get the first updates to the board. If you don't get a connection via serial port change the cable of find another computer. The YAT program has to find the duet board or your going to have to do a complete board erase and use BOSSA 

That gets real tricky and explaining it is difficult. The Duet website does a good job but it's confusing because thet try to instruct with different boards not just the duet wifi. 

I am trying to detail for only the duet2 wifi and configured for longer LK1

you cannot upgrade directly from version 1.x or 2.x firmware to 3.01 or later firmware

https://duet3d.dozuki.com/Wiki/Installing_and_Updating_Firmware

For updating your Duet from RRF v1.x to 2.x, see the legacy firmware update instructions. This gets down to reset the board completely with erase. It's a great experience and will take you a couple hours or days to get it humming. 

What I did was to grab 3 new duet2 wifi boards and updated all from 1.2 to 3.3  at the same time  I have a sd card with all the files if i can upload them I will if not just request them

This is my final files and the 2 missing  there should be everything here https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/1bjXCtonZIx33Jcmff43aCxHj6wrugxZC?usp=sharing

Here are some important parameters which are control while slicing.

• Wall Thickness
• Layer Height
• Layer Width
• Nozzle and Bed Temperature
• Retraction
• Line Width

Wall Thickness

Assigning correct wall thickness is helps you to reduce the material uses and print time. Wall thickness may differ for each different material.

You can also control the quality of your print by selecting print order of wall, In print order, you can select which wall has to be print first internal or outer.

Layer Height

It describes how much height each layer has. In high detail print, you need to decrease the layer height so you can achieve a smooth surface finish but it increase the print time.

On the other hand in low detail print, you need to increase layer height so your surface finish may decrease but minimize the print time.

Nozzle and Bed Temperature

In case you need high-speed extrusion of material so you need to increase the nozzle temperature thus material gets melted in less time.

Also after unpacking filaments if you store them without any protection from the air, they absorb moisture, in that case, their melting point may increase due to the presence of moisture.

Also, you need to change the heatbed temperature according to your material so the material will stick well with the heatbed and decrease the chance of wrapping.

There are many other methods also to decrease the chance of wrapping.

Retraction

In a custom build printer, you have two options for extruder type (1)Direct Drive Extrude (2)Bowden Extruder.

In a direct drive extruder, you need to set retraction distance less than 1mm and in a Bowden type extruder, you need to set retraction distance less than 4mm.

Line Width

In layer width, you can control the width of a single printed line. In 3d model, there are many different types of lines.

If set correct line width for each type of line it may result in good quality print and less print time. Here are some line type:-

• Top and Botton line width
• Infill line width
• Skirt and Brim line width
• Support line width
• Initial line width etc.

Something to keep in mind

There are many other advanced parameters to play with it. If you want to be more productive in 3d printing learn about them. Learn them also because your final print(Quality, Structural Strength, Print Time, and Cost of Print) heavily depend on them.

FAQ

This was my first Longer customer returned lk1 and I though It was gonna be ok, boy was I wrong.

The recieved condition
Hot-end had broken off tip and the insert was also damaged and broke off
No tools and unit looked like it had a few prints on it
The gantry was loose as well as the bottom plate rollers
Overall this unit looked like it was man handled or gruella hands

Repair and test :
Replaced the hotend with an updated Titanium Heat Break Thermal Barrel
after trying a couple prints it became evedient the hot end couldn't get the temp above 190. Further inspection revealed the thermal and heater were new. I ended up running a new heater block and pushing the wires straight through to the main board in order to get the temps up to 220. It looked like I was there.

I figured this would be a good and cheap upgrade to the hot end. After assembly the test prints failed. I even went as far as replacing the complete hotend again only to realize the filament was not being delivered. Turns out the main board driver could not power the servo strong enough to push out the material. At this point I had to conclude the original owner was an idiot and did serous damage to the unit. (i use the term loosely because sometimes I qualify)

Decision Time: Well the time waisted on this makes it a bust out and the replacement mainboard is 70 bucks so Forgeta bout it.

Now to get something out of this unit and the decision is-----Replace the mainboard with a duet wifi control board. (60 smakers) This changes the dynamics of the game because of the capability and wireless connection. So here goes

First you have to mount the board , physical mount, I placed it where the old lk1 board was, then wire it up. At this point it's time to get a real lesson in Arduino programming because you have to update the code on the duet to current version and also set it up to run on the LK1.

Here are some files you will need and get ready to stress out because if your running a microcrap os it's a bitch. serial port configuration for one thing, if you get lucky and win finds the board look to heaven, if not consider a different computer

DUET WiFi instructions, BOSSA, YAT ,

Essentially what your doing is putting the duet into bootloader mode and connecting through the win comport and transmitting the .bin file to the board. This will give the duet a operating system to run

This is where we wind up, a beautiful interface that is connected to the host computer via ip & WiFi

intial setup using online config tool

first run was crazy, only had z movement

step one check heaters
ran M303 H0 S60 to heat and calibrate the bed Success!
ran M303 H1 S 200

The duet has 3 wire endstops the 3v is not used on the board the outboard wires are used not the middle M119 in prontoface shows endstop status

The upgrade is moving along but the homing causes the unit to act like an core xy setup. when I home either of the axis's the machine lifts the z then repositions x then drops z

This is a sidebar to explain the end stops for the Lk1 and duet

As mentioned above the wiring on the duet requires the use of the outboard pins of the 3pin connector, thus requiring changing out the connectors, it's just not possible to use the original 2 pin from the lk1.
Then the config file needs to reflect (active low) for the 3 axis's

Referance before you start your duet install

Location of plug-in files for Duet Web Control

Convert stl to gcode

Step 1. Slicer Software

You need to install slicer software on your PC. While installing or after installing it ask for file types that are support on the slicer. Chose Arduino support, Stl, and gcode support but you are free to select as your need.

There are many different slicer software in the market. You can find many free slicer software with great features.

• Ultimaker Cura
• SuperSlicer
• PrusaSlicer
• PrusaSlicer
• Slic3r
• Eiger
• Simplify 3D
• FlashPrint

Step 2. Printer Profile

First, you need to create your printer profile in slicer software. Many different consumer’s printers companies already gave their printer profile in the slicer but if you use custom build so you need to do this.

1. Select the custom option from the printer.
2. Add Printer maximum travel distance for all axes.
3. Select Bed Type.
4. Chose G-code type.
5. Add Print-head dimensions.
6. Add height difference between nozzle and z-axis in gantry height.
7. Also, add extruder offset if needed.

Start g-code and End G-code

Start g-code run before every print while End g-code run after every print.

This will be added when I figure it out for the duet wifi

If you know the g-code language then you can add them as your need but if you don’t know about g-code then leave them as they or you internet for the best g-code commands to start or end the print.

Step 3. Import STL File

After configuring the printer profile, import your STL file from the import option in the slicer. you see your model in the slicer.

Before you click on the slice button you have to do some more configuration according to your print

• Select Material Type.
• Select print speed.
• Chose Gradient infill (It save your time and filament).
• Add Support.
• Select Adhesion type according to your filament type

Step 4. Slicing

After setting everything click on slice

• Put that file in your printer SD card.
• Insert the SD card in the printer (In Marlin Firmware).
• Power on the printer.
• In LCD navigate to SD card here you can see your files.

Note this:  the addition of the second z axis really wasn't worth the trouble. Yes it would help with the LK1 cause the x frame bar is long but the process to get the bed level has been a complete waist of time. Until I can get a sold instruction I would not recommend it

Final updates and settings

The final thing I wanted to try was adding the 2nd Z axis screw

This install has 2 methods of wiring. The kit comes with a splitter but the Duet2 has both a serial port and you can put the wiring to a separate driver (E1). The benefit of the latter option is the software can drive the 2 motors separate allowing for tilting the bet to get it level

What needs to be here is the code to input for the bedleveling. Working on it. The install uses the separate driver

add these lines to setup second z axis

File config.g:

...

M584 X0 Y1 Z2:4 E3; two Z motors connected to driver outputs Z and E1

M671 X-20:220 Y0:0 S0.5 ; leadscrews at left (connected to Z) and right (connected to E1) of X axis

M208 X-5:205 Y0:300 ; X carriage moves from -5 to 305, Y bed goes from 0 to 300

...

File bed.g:

G28 ; home

M401 ; deploy Z probe (omit if using bltouch)

G30 P0 X20 Y100 Z-99999 ; probe near a leadscrew, half way along Y axis

G30 P1 X180 Y100 Z-99999 S2 ; probe near a leadscrew and calibrate 2 motors

M402 ; retract probe (omit if using bltouch)

MY config

; Drives
M569 P0 S1 ; physical drive 0 goes forwards
M569 P1 S0 ; physical drive 1 goes backwards
M569 P2 S1 ; physical drive 2 goes forwards
M569 P3 S0 ; physical drive 3 goes backwards
M569 P4 S1 ; physical drive 4 goes forwards
M584 X0 Y1 Z2:4 E3 ; two Z motors connected to driver outputs Z and E1
M671 X-20:220 Y0:0 S0.5 ; leadscrews at left (connected to Z) and right (connected to E1) of X axis
M350 X16 Y16 Z16 E16:16 I1 ; configure microstepping with interpolation
M92 X80.00 Y80.00 Z400.00 E93.00:400.00 ; set steps per mm
M566 X1200.00 Y1200.00 Z24.00 E300.00:24.00 ; set maximum instantaneous speed changes (mm/min)
M203 X24000.00 Y24000.00 Z300.00 E6000.00:300.00 ; set maximum speeds (mm/min)
M201 X700.00 Y700.00 Z100.00 E5000.00:100.00 ; set accelerations (mm/s^2)
M906 X800 Y800 Z800 E1000:800 I50 ; set motor currents (mA) and motor idle factor in per cent
M84 S30 ; Set idle timeout

Once you understand the basics and get some experience it will all come together. I didn't say it was easy, because there are so many different things to learn, but the best part is your reading, the best way to learn

The Acceleration setting measures how fast your print head speeds up, limited by your designated 3D printer speed in your slicer settings.

The higher the setting, the quicker the print head will get to its maximum speed, the lower the setting, the slower the print head will get to its maximum speed.

A lot of times your top speeds won’t be reached when 3D printing, especially smaller objects because there is not much distance travelled to make full use of the acceleration.

It’s very similar to a car’s acceleration, where if a car can go a maximum of 100 kph, but there are a lot of turns in your journey, you’ll find it hard to get to the maximum speed.

In the Cura slicer, they state that enabling ‘Acceleration Control’ can reduce printing time at the cost of print quality. What we can hopefully do on the other side is improve our Acceleration at the benefit of increasing print quality.

Your slicer doesn’t actually have much to do with acceleration, in so far as emitting G-code to say where the print head should go and at what speed. It’s the firmware which sets limits to speed and deciding how fast to accelerate to a given speed.

Each axis on your printer can have different speeds, acceleration and jerk settings. The X and Y axis settings are generally the same, otherwise your prints can have different features dependent on part orientation.

There are limits on how high you can set acceleration, especially when printing at angles larger than 45 degrees.

What is the Jerk Setting?

It’s quite a complex term and has different descriptions based on what firmware you are using. It’s basically an approximation value that specifies the minimum speed change that requires acceleration.

The Jerk setting measures the speed at which your print head moves from its still position. The higher the setting, the faster it will move off from a stable position, the lower the setting, the slower it will move off from a stable position.

It can also be known as the minimum speed your print head will slow down before initiating speed in a different direction. Think of it like a car driving straight, then slowing down before a turn.

If Jerk is high, your print head won’t slow down as much before making the directional change.

When the print head is told to change speed and direction in the G-code, if the difference in speed calculations is less than the specified Jerk value, it should happen ‘instantaneously’.

Higher Jerk values gives you:

• Reduced printing times
• Fewer blobs in your prints
• Increased vibrations from rapid changes in direction
• Smoother operation around corners and circles

Lower Jerk values gives you:

• Less mechanical stresses to your printer
• Smoother movements
• Better adhesion for your filament at direction changes
• Less noise from your printer
• Less lost steps as you may get with higher values

Akeric found that having a Jerk value of 10 gave the same printing time at 60mm/s speed as a Jerk value of 40. Only when he increased the printing speed past 60mm/s to around 90mm/s did the jerk value give real differences in printing times.

High values for Jerk settings basically mean the change of speed in each direction is too fast, which usually results in extra vibrations.

There is weight from the printer itself, as well as from the moving parts so a combination of weight and fast movement doesn’t go too well for print quality.

The negative print quality effects that you’ll see as a result of these vibrations are called ghosting or echoing. I’ve written a quick article on How to Solve Ghosting & How to Fix Banding/Ribbing which goes through similar points.

Which Problems Do Jerk & Acceleration Settings Solve?

Adjusting your acceleration and jerk settings has a whole host of issues that it solves, even things that were not known to you as an issue.

It can solve the following:

• Rough print surface
• Removing ringing from prints (curves)
• Can make your printer a lot quieter
• Eliminate the Z-wobble in prints
• Fixing the layer line skips
• Stop your printer from running too violently or shaking too much
• Many print quality issues in general

There are plenty of people who went and adjusted their acceleration and jerk settings and got some of the best print quality they’ve ever had. Sometimes you don’t even realize how good your print quality can be until you actually get it for the first time.

I’d definitely recommend trying this fix out and seeing if it works for you. The worst thing that can happen is it doesn’t work and you just change your settings back, but with some trial and error you should be able to reduce issues and increase print quality.

The video below by The 3D Print General goes into the effects Jerk & Acceleration settings have on print quality

How Do I Get the Perfect Acceleration & Jerk Settings?

There are certain configurations which are tried and tested in the 3D printing world. This is great because it means you have to do very little testing to get the best settings for yourself.

You can use these settings as a baseline, isolate either acceleration or jerk, then increase or decrease it little by little until you get your desired quality.

Now for the settings.

For your Jerk setting you should try 7mm/s and see how it goes.

Jerk X & Y should be at 7. Acceleration for X, Y, Z should be set to 700.

You can go directly into your menu on your printer, select the control setting, then ‘motion’ you should see your acceleration and jerk settings.

• Vx – 7
• Vy – 7
• Vz – can be left alone
• Amax X – 700
• Amax Y – 700
• Amax Z – can be left alone

If you would rather do it in your slicer, Cura allows you to change these values without flashing your firmware.

You’ll just have to go into Cura settings and click advanced settings, or custom settings to view your jerk and acceleration values.

Usually you want to do this one by one. It’s good to start off with the jerk setting.

If lowering your jerk makes things too slow, you can up your print speed somewhat to compensate. If just lowering the jerk doesn’t fix your problem, then lower the acceleration and see what difference it makes.

Some people leave the Jerk settings at 0 & have an acceleration of 500 to get good prints. It really depends on your printer and how well-tuned and maintained it is.

Binary Search Method for Getting Good Jerk & Acceleration

The binary search algorithm is commonly used by computers to search programs and it can be used in many applications such as this one here. What it does it give a reliable calibration method by using ranges and averages.

How to use the binary method:

1. Establish a value that is too low (L) and one that’s too high (H)
2. Work out the middle value (M) of this range: (L+H) / 2
3. Try printing at your M value and see the results
4. If M is too high, use M as your new H value and vice versa if too low
5. Repeat this until you get your desired result

It can take some time but once you find the settings that work best for your printer, it can make the world of a difference. You’ll be able to be proud of your prints and not have weird, wavy lines and artifacts plaguing your print quality.

It’s a good idea saving them as a default profile in your slicing software. So the next time you come to slice your next print, it will be automatically input into the settings.

I advise you to write down what the settings were before you change it so you can always change it back in case it doesn’t work. If you forgot to it isn’t a big deal because there should be a default setting to make it go back to the original settings.

These settings do vary from printer to printer because they have different designs, weights and so on. For example, 3D Printer Wiki  says to set Jerk to 8 and the Acceleration to 800 for the Wanhao Duplicator i3.

Once you’ve tuned your settings, use this Ghosting Test to analyze the levels of ghosting and whether it’s better or worse.

You want to look for ghosting of sharp edges (on the letters, dimples and corners).

If you have vibrations on your Y-axis, it will be seen on the X side of the cube. If you have vibrations on your X-axis, it will be seen on the Y side of the cube.

Slowly test and adjust to get the settings just right.

Description

Some of the default firmware settings are great for showcasing the speed capabilities of the printer, but are not optimized for print quality. Specifically, the Jerk and Acceleration settings are set too high by default.  These setting control the change in speed when changing directions.  High values will result in vibrations as the motors change directions which results in the ghosting or echoing effect as seen below.

Process

Using the control box

1. Use the dial on the control box to navigate to Configuration -> Acceleration.
2. Change the Print X and Print Y from the stock value of 1000 to 800.
3. Change the Jerk from the stock value of 20 to 8.

Using Repetier-Host

1. Connect to your printer with Repetier-Host
2.  Under the Config menu option, choose “Firmware EEPROM Configuration.”
3. Change the Jerk and Acceleration settings.  Set X and Y Acceleration to 800 and Jerk to 8.

Testing

Issue the M851 Z0 command. This sets the Z offset to Zero. We will set this later.

Issue the M500 command. This saves the new information to memory.

Issue the G28 command. This will Home the machine. Once this command is entered,
the printer will home and then begin lowering the print head until the sensor is
TRIGGERED. Once the machine finds the distance at which the sensor is triggered, the
printer head stops and the sensor light is on.

. Find the new (negative) -Z offset. (Once printer is up to operating temperature)

Issue the M851 Z-X.XX command.

Issue the M500 command. This will save the new –Z offset to the printer’s memory. This
setting will keep the new –Z offset in the printer’s memory through reboots.

Issue the G29. This command will activate the bed leveling sequence for the first time.
BEHOLD! Your 3D printer will now begin learning where the bed is and begin to record
any variations in bed height.